So, we arrived by Bullet train following a 4 hour journey and headed for our final adventure. I have to say, not my best entrance – walking off the station platform and cut up by a passenger clearly on a mission to exit at speed, he changed direction without noticing me, ran over my foot with his wheelie case and tripped me up – my dive, it has to be said, would have me signed up for goalie by any one of my Fantasy Football teams – hands out, knees thumping on to the stone floor, all seeming like slow motion to me and my somewhat surprised husband!
Met my Lili, she shuffled us into our awaiting car and off we headed to The Eclat Hotel, reaching there at almost midnight. Now I have to say, having stayed in the Shangri La Hotel in the London Shard, we thought we had experienced the best hotel ever visited, this has now been topped – an absolutely stunning vision, original art pieces lining every corridor of the 4 floors, including Salvador Dali and Andy Warhol – the owner changing pieces every 3 months ensuring his vast collection is shared by all and touched should temptation dictate. Our room blew us away, even down to the toilet that gently opened its own lid to provide an adequately warmed seat… the bed felt like a marshmallow and the pillows fluffy clouds – have we ever deserved this after some endured to date – a fridge full of complimentary delights and a view across Beijing from the floor to ceiling windows …. simply wow!
Following a delicious breakfast served by the kindly staff of this hotel that oozes comfort and tranquility, we were taken to Tiananmen Square where before us, a beautiful floral arrangement had only been unveiled the previous day for the People’s Republic National Celebration on the 1st October – a vast expanse of space thankfully now peaceful save the bustling crowds, and then to walk passed Chairman Mao’s Mausoleum.
Onto the Forbidden City, originally constructed for the Emperor, his wife and Concubines* in the 15th century and now open for the public to cross the moat and enter via the defensive walls. Next stop, the Temple of Heaven which was used by Emperors of the Ming and Qing Dynasties for ceremonies and prayers and houses various temples, pavilions, gardens and walkways in its extensive grounds.
Finally, an acrobatic show at the local theatre – contortionists, plate-spinning ladies and scary motorbike acts provided to the ooooing and arghhhhing crowds – eyes open in wonder before the made dash to the exit and my poor feet being stamped on by an old fellow clearly needing to clear a path! I have to say, what with a Monk standing on my toe in Hong Kong (whilst he was on his mobile phone!) without even an apology, being tripped at a railway station and now this, I’m feeling protective hob nail boots might have been a good option had flight baggage allowances granted!
Today, the 1600 km Great wall, originally called ‘brick wall’ as it was previously built in individual pieces at each Kingdom – instigated by the Emperor buried with his Terracotta Army, sections were all joined up 2000 years ago, as he unified (took over!) all Kingdoms! Apparently 20% of population were forced to build this wall – intensive work through all seasons, many died and some bodies bones are still sited within the stones … Towers contained guards who lit fires should enemies approach sending a signal to next tower in turn which told the Emperor just how close the enemies were ( ie as fires in towers got closer to his home, start packing!). Renovated in portions for tourists to walk and cable cars installed 10-15 years ago, following a short (breathless!) incline from shuttle coach park and passed the tacky souvenir shops offering sweatshirts to brave the 15 decree chill (!?), this certainly was an amazing sight (though I am not sure what I dread most, a cable car taking me to ascend the steps of a reputed treacherous wonder or descend a feared ski run!!)
I did not expect to be surrounded by such beautiful green mountains as we stood on the wall taking in the view and the freshest air, their natural beauty almost lost wrapped around the man made barricade. Seeing the Great Wall snake along curling, climbing and then falling away with grace – this wonder not just the sheer magnitude but at how any living creature or person could have the stamina to climb laden with stone? To then build this seemingly endless serpent, a relentless task, maybe never knowing that in their future we would be standing in awe respecting our past…
Next on to the Summer palace – a retreat for Emperors’ to relax in the hot summer months as it is apparently cooler in the north west of Beijing. In 1920 this vast space was opened to public – with a lake apparently shaped like a peach (created by the Emperor in respect of his mother and hope for her longevity of life), with a walking corridor 728 metres long, this is indeed the longest corridor in the world and much appreciated by the locals to relax and while away their time too …
Finally, a Peking duck dinner with pancakes and all the trimmings … truth be told, I prefer the British Chinese version as it is crispy – this duck was tasty but the pancakes resembled the dreaded consistency of dumplings (but flat!) and not a crispy edge bit anywhere, mmmm, reckon chef must have had the best bit! Back to our beautiful retreat for a tour of the hotel (thanks to Tony, the Room Division Manager) and to our marshmallow bed before a 4am rise airport bound …. Goodnight Beijing.
FACTS:
- Young boys (from the age of 6 years), usually from poorer families, were sent to the Emperors for a better life and were ‘removed’ of their sexual desiring organs to become Eunuchs . With ‘desires’ removed they were not so ‘tempted’ by the palace Concubines beauty, saving them for the Emperor only.
- Concubines (effectively live-in mistresses) were usually the daughters of Government personnel and were paraded, en mass, to the Emperor for his selection and, if chosen, lived in the Kingdom for the remainder of their lives. Each Concubine had her own Eunuch who would take her name to Emperor by means of suggesting she would be ‘available’ for that evening. Concubines were keen to impress the Emperor and if one could bear a male child for him, her status (and her family’s) was much elevated so naturally (its a girl thing!) jealousy amongst the Concubines was rife as attracting his attention regularly a priority!
- The Empress (wife) was rarely ‘seen’ by the Emperor, this was a marriage of status only though if she did produce an heir, this would be the perfect scenario as a child would (if male) become rightful kingdom heir (otherwise the male child of a Concubine).
- In 1980 television became permitted in China though for some, but mostly black n white tv’s only and certain programmes. In 1977 people could travel outside of China and tourists were allowed in to China. Prior to 1977, people mostly wore all blue, no high heels, no coloured hair as it was considered not a respectable for a lady to be presented colourfully …
FINALLY …
China – a country where eye contact is barely made as people scurry, barge and push at every opportunity, looking after number one seeming to be the priority and by English standards, beyond rude! With the exception of tour guides, inquisitive locals memorised by westerners and some hotel staff, as a tourist visiting this country, I feel ‘tolerated’ rather than ‘welcomed’. Drivers and cyclists look out for themselves with no courtesy extended to fellow road users. Attractions are either breath-taking or not. Public toilets resembling dirty shower trays with squatting for use only amplifying the stench already too noticeable. Snorting and spitting on the street common place and if you don’t step aside, be prepared to receive the offering on your foot! Trains that arrive on time and then seamlessly glide through the countryside with grace and speed, with planes that match their railed companions in efficiency.
It feels like a country caught between change and not daring to look, still eating like ancestors aside modern cafes trying to step in. I had a dream of the wonders of China (after all, its name appeared on so many of my childhood toys), I imagined it so full of mystery and buzzing with passion and life (like the phone in my pocket) but I have been woken – the smells, sounds, hard faces, I feel animal cruelty, some lacking manners and seeming lack of compassion; the beauty of historic artefacts (many rebuilt following wars and fires); dragons and lions bravely guarding and stunning, delicate flowers almost trodden on and ignored by the growing skyscraper buildings and bright lights of the new cities … it has sadly not beckoned me to return as some other countries do, but has turned its back and not even noticed that I have left … that was CHINA …
