So, yesterday and touching wood, today, appear to be migraine free! YIPPEE!!
I cannot express how great it felt simply soaking all this in without the looming cloud of strained eyes and throbbing head – wonderful – worry not though, naturally, as one departs, the next appears, yep, cold sores! Fortunately, I appear to have come armed with at least 3 different potions in the medi-pack most of which are in date, so if choice to be made, I’ll take the cold sores as they are less restrictive than migraines!
The band night was good – Roger plays in a band at home and was absolutely fantastic, playing aside the Philippines bar tender and two engine crew on guitar (needs must out here!), we did the conga outside on the deck at 11pm to Proclaimers 500 miles – not many can do that in the Arctic, such a hoot!
Yesterday was a on board boat day – no RIB visits – together with 2 lectures, one on plants, the other on glaciers and ice.
FACTS:
For six months of the year, the sun doesn’t set. Tallest plant is 20cm. There are 164 species of plant in Svalbard. Many plants asexual and reproduce a replica of themselves to ensure survival as pollination unlikely (only one bee here and whilst wind blows pollen, few other plants nearby to catch it!). We are seeing sea ice and glacial ice presently in the interglacial period (not glacial). Ice starts to freeze at minus 1.8. As ice starts to freeze, Frazil are created (grease ice). Needles of Frazil crystals grow – in calm oceans called Nilas ice, if windy, pancake ice. Ice crystals thicken up and create pack ice. Our ship is not an ice breaker, simply reinforced but can push ice – so we cannot go through tightly packed floating ice, merely push it along between gaps – a bit like seaside penny machines! Open water is categorized as 1/10 ice (few packs), we pushed through 8/10 yesterday (which was memorizing watching the gentle sweep of drifting icy islands ..) The ice is saltier than sea water and as it warms, it sinks.
The sailing along yesterday appeared to prove fruitful as we encountered a polar bear snoozing on the ice pack. She stirred gently, raising her paddy paws, sniffing the air and shuffling around to make a more comfy nest – seemingly to create an ice pillow to rest her head – I have to say, this icy dessert is truly captivating – the stillness, utter tranquility and beauty as the chill freezes you into a moment of time that will remain within (aside my beautiful Africa).
After watching the female bear for a couple of hours, we partook in lunch following which she got up, walked about, came up to our boat for another sniff, gently strolled over ice packs, scratched snow, tested snow stability by stamping it prior to a unsure jump and only embarrassed herself once when slipped and received soggy ankles (and blushing cheeks I am sure!). Eventually we bade her goodbye as it is wrong to follow (chase) her, and watched her settle a way off with front legs out in front, rear splayed out behind, as if cooling her furry tummy – a truly memorable experience.
Dilemma, I now have to review my categories of favourite animals again!
- best sea animal (whale)
- best land animal (tiger)
and now!
- best sea/land animal (polar bear!)
So, today we are sailing aside a surging glacier, which last surged in 1930. Later we pass an ice cliff which is apparently 160km long and the largest in the northern hemisphere. Now to don the thermals etc. and go to brave the elements!
