So, did park area 1 this afternoon (previous times were park 2) – much more mountainous, green and more water areas – up there with rock climbs of Samburu, and declines of a Disney roller coaster! Thank goodness our land rover jeep is made of sturdy stuff and coped with all thrown at it – as one of the couples didn’t join afternoon safari, we bagged their preferred seats which were not directly above the wheel axel and offering a much less bumpy ride (save the natural rocks throwing us about like clothes in a spin cycle!).
We saw:
Jungle cockerel (he MUST be following us!)
Jungle spotted deer
Jungle peacock
Jungle wild boar
BIRDS
BUTTERFLIES (stunning colours …)
Oh, and ANOTHER TWO TIGERS!!!!!!!!!
You can imagine our excitement through gasps at two wonders in one day …. The first hidden in the bush with jeeps jockeying for best position of ‘shrub’, then on we drove as she walked away (yes, this time female, probably slightly shorter and more slim than male of the morning … around 7 years old, had had 2 litters of cubs, 3 in each – first lot survived, second all died sadly as not enough for mum to eat when they were born and subsequently she had no milk – apparently they can have up to two litters a year, gestation period 3 months). Unbelievably, this female tiger reappeared, clambered down a rock face and walked behind our jeep – yes, I saw her face, can you believe my ‘greedy’ wish came true! .. Utterly stunning and my favourite animal groups now split into land and water (!) sorry whale, you are not alone any more ….. Husband managed to record her very well as I watched, took photos and again I cried (this is getting silly now!) – so much more than we could have ever hoped for …..
On leaving the park at speed (hilarious being flung about madly!) we found one other female stalking a deer – Samburu and Emmanuelle, our Masai drivers, would have known she stood no chance what with tall, rustily grass and chattering monkeys yelling of her presence – she was about 2 years old, really thin and evidently in need of the said deer supper …. the sighting a ‘brief encounter’ but still memorising seeing her crouch down like a stalking kitten…
Seems if guides (and assigned rangers) do not get to the exit gates at 6:15pm closure, they are banned from working for periods of time ie, 5 mins late = 1 month ban, 15 mins = 6months – certainly not worth the loss of earnings especially when parks close July to October. Because tigers were not breeding due to coach loads of tourists in years gone by, rules of 60 jeeps per day introduced 3 years ago and harshly policed by wardens, 20 jeeps per park area permitted in allocated time slots. One group here couldn’t get into park area 1 when they tried to book 2 months ago as it was full as it is most popular (most stunning with temple on mountain top) – seems you have to book at least 4 months in advance – thank goodness again for cox and kings forethought (and apparently they also specify we have to have same butler throughout so our personal likes and dislikes catered for without needing to repeat to multiple staff…. so much they organise without our knowing!!).
Sadly nothing else seen save our friend the cockerel this afternoon and the obligatory peacocks, boar and deer – we ventured into park 3 (so we have done all zones) – terrane much same as park 2, though less guidance as to which route to follow so our (rather useless as it turns out!) guide (who prefers birds to tigers!) drove to each water hole, saw nothing so moved on … job done (question, why would he expect to see tiger at water hole when they haven’t been there yet!) – despite all this, we are in awe of sights so far and appreciate exactly how lucky we were as ‘so many’ people here have told us how they haven’t seen any tigers!
Bandhavgarh National park (3 tigers) and now at Kanha National park area (stayed at Banjaar Tola) (1 tiger) – Thursday we head for Nagpur before flying to Mumbai for one night then home …. Having a wonderful time exploring this culturally rich country and now we are acclimatised to the less savoury aspects, really thrilled we are experiencing it!
Ps, did I mention …….
WE SAW TIGERS – plural!!!!!!!!
