Following a brief flight yesterday we arrived in Chiang Rai and were bought to the Anatara Resort. At breakfast, we were greeted by a baby elephant (5 years old) called ‘Am’ who was happy to trumpet when asked (by means of an agreed word?) …. We were given bananas which she insisted be placed on her tongue (nice!) and on the end of her inquisitive trunk …. a somewhat kinder approach to that previously witnessed and with Mahout encouraged to leave the Cities and bring ‘their’ (?!) elephants to this sanctuary, a promise of food, accommodation and kindness offered for the exchange of us tourists visiting in a more natural setting …
Next, we were taken to the opium museum adjacent to our hotel by a large tuk tuk and left to wander this impressive building (set up by the queen mum to try to teach people how bad the opium trade has been over the years and discourage dependence now …). We have to say, came out feeling a tad bad at what the British empire did to take over China during opium wars and monopolized the trade of the substance which resulted in such dependence for profiteering now! Seems it is still grown in some parts of Burma today. Unfortunately, the museum is too expensive for local Thai people to attend (200 barts equivalent to £4.00 – they would rather eat than read about history and guess they have a point when the average minimum wage per hour is 200 barts!).
Next we went by private tour guide around the three countries – considered a unique location of Anantara Golden Triangle, we crossed Burma border (nervously leaving passports behind with passport control as is insisted to ensure we leave again!!) and witnessed quite a different culture (folk more Indian looking though many women wear a white powder on their faces to desperately try not to tan and be more ‘westernised’…. bazaar as we strive for a tan when on holiday!).
It seems the people love our brown hair, blue eyes, large noses (!) and so you can image, we tended to stand out a tad! The temples here were pitiful and run down (though with flashing lights surrounding the Buddha!), houses rather shack like but for a country so poor, they have kind and strong morals.
The markets were not as vibrant and fresh looking as witnessed in Bangkok, much fish in various states (!), meats, live frogs (!), chickens (and insides of chickens!), mouldy fruit and veg …. Quite tummy turning but ever thankful we missed the early meat market where you can buy MOLE!
Burma (now renamed Myanmar in 2009) has an abundance of teak, precious stones, gems, natural gas and oil but also a government that presently don’t let them freely trade; Thai people refer to them as ‘sleeping tiger’ for it is considered if Burma rules change, with so much to trade, they will become richer than most of Asia!
Coming back into Thailand, we visited more ruins/temples and markets – fakes galore! Onto a long tail boat and back to hotel then tomorrow is ‘elephant training’ and a relaxing spa session in the afternoon ….
FACTS of the day:
- Monks can become a monk at any time from 6 years old for any period from a day to life! Our guide had been a monk for a day, full hair and eye brows shaved off on that day but considered huge sign of respect by his family to his grandmother who had just died. It allowed her, and them, to receive a higher place on passing …..
- Monks are fed breakfast at the alms giving (basically anything provided by locals, usually in one pot to individual monks eg, rice, sweet and sour dish and pudding all in one bowl! They are not aloud to leave anything otherwise it is considered disrespectful to the farmer who grew/farmed rice, and chicken that died etc ….). They also receive lunch by same means (donated) but no dinner.
- Schooling Tuition includes standard subjects but no sport – instead learn readings. ‘Buddha’ died 2556 years ago and Buddhists therefore consider year now as 2556 as not counted from Christ’s birth. Children are taught both years (is now 2013 and 2556) but on official documents they quote BE (Buddhist era) of 2556.
- Monks are not allowed to desire, think bad thoughts, lust or envy – a child monk learns 10 readings, from 21 years 200+ – newly introduced ‘lady monks’ have to learn over 300 as they have ‘women’s emotions’ (too sensitive) which need additional addressing (really?!!). ‘Relationships’ with women or indeed a wife cannot continue during time as a monk – some men do leave family and become a monk for a while (to bring good for their family) then return home after they have done their time ….. Hopefully, good life lessons learnt stay with them. Ex convicts often become monks to ensure they are effectively ‘cleansed’ before their own demise!
- Buddha statues come in various forms/guises depending on the persons who made them at different periods over time – some resemble Chinese round faces or more angled Thai – it seems ‘Buddha’ said no image of him should be created as living purely by scriptures are all that is needed, not via an image, as people can meditate/prey anywhere not just at a temple – so long as scriptures do not change, morals remain.
- Burma monks wear dark maroon, brown robes, Thai wear orange, saffron or yellow (bright colours …).
- When you train as a monk you are ranked 1 in afterlife but over time and by learning scriptures, meditation, you might pick up on thoughts and messages from Buddha, foresee future, know what/who you were in a precious life or what you might come back as in the next etc …these you must not share with others, just know yourself from within – in time you can make your way up to much higher ranking in the afterlife (I think it was in the 20’s!) but again, you must not tell others where your message of ranking is …..
All in all, very interesting … seems a calm, harmless life but maybe tough when others in the ‘real world’ may not be so and test you regularly ….?
